Custom 1966 Volvo P1800s 1800
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Redondo Beach, California, United States
Features and Specifications
1966 Volvo Other
Custom 1966 Volvo P1800s
At 50 years old, this car has been built to last another 50. Iâ€™m only selling it due to my permanent relocation overseas. I'm leaving the country August 5th, and am more likely to give a deal before then. If you're interested, let me know, I am happy to arrange a time for you to see the car.Currently registered in California, insured and with a clean title.
A few quick highlights:
Custom engine built by Phil Singer, the top vintage Volvo engine builder: B20 engine 0.040â€ overbore and head flow ported. Ross Racing pistons and a Volvo â€œDâ€ camshaft.
All new upholstery by Santiago Gil, one of the best in Los Angeles.
New custom paint and body work, from bare metal.
Custom wheel fitment by Jewel Tire.
Garage stored always.
All machine work done by Vellios Machine Shop â€“ true experts.
This car has been completely rebuilt. Here is a partial list of the many things that have been done:
Progressive Springs from V-Performance
All suspension bushings replaced with polyurethane and rubber
All new tie rods and ball joints
New KYB shocks front and rear
Custom idler arm bush designed and made by Vellios Machine Shop
New motor and transmission mounts
Sachsclutchkit balanced to flywheel
Aligned by Leeâ€™s Automotive
Crossmember reinforced at shock mounts, stripped and powder coated
Rebuilt starter motor and alternator at Rotex
Radiator tested and repaired by Crandal Radiator; new radiator cap
New PIAA dual-tone horn
All new upholstery: seats to original design, floor and trunk matts, door panels
Interior completely covered with Dynamat to deaden sound before re-upholstery
All instruments repaired/rebuild
Brake system rebuilt. New front brake calipers, front rotors, new pads front and back, new flex lines and rear brake cables, rear brake drums, rear cylinders, rear limit straps.
New master cylinder and Powertune/Lockheed brake booster
Rear brake proportioning valve rebuilt, new seals
New drive shaft U-joints
New gaskets throughout
Carburetor cleaned and tuned by California Carburetor
Engine bay cleaned, rust removed and repainted
All rubber seals replaced: windows, doors, hood, trunk and bumper, foot pedals, shifter, firewall, etc.
New, modern tires â€“ Michelin Premier A/S 195/65R15
Custom wheel fitment â€“ Katana TM1 by Jewel Tire
Trim and bumpers powder coated gloss black by Verneâ€™s Chrome
New side window channel felt and scrapers
New front windshield
Extra set of keys made. Keylocks matched.
New exhaust pipe and mufflers, new rubber hangers
Gas tank cleaned and lined by Gardena A/C & Radiator Service
Exhaust header Ceramic coated for reduced heat in engine bay
Steering wheel leather wrapped by Amadeus Upholstery
New steering coupler
Windows tinted to 35%
New satin car cover
This car is in excellent functional condition and can be driven without hesitation. Being a classic car, there always a few things that could use some attention. Here are the things that I see as issues with the car:
I really wanted this to be a quiet car, which I why I lined it with Dynamat and felt under the upholstery. Nevertheless, there are still some rattles that are annoying. They are small things, like screws under the dash and panel clips in the door. I havenâ€™t had the time to deal with them, but they are the first thing I would do with this car.
There is no audio system in the car. This is the second thing I would do to this car.
The carburetors could be rebuilt for slightly smoother running.
One corner of the passenger door and one corner of the trunk are a slightly out of line. It should be a small job for a body shop to put them back in place.
The hood should be heat shielded at some point, to protect the paint. Similarly, the cabin roof could be insulated to keep the interior more comfortable.
Front orange turn lights have slight mismatch.
The window sprayers work, but not really well. I donâ€™t use them because I donâ€™t want water sitting on the car, nor do I let the car get that dirty. The cap on the wash reservoir doesnâ€™t match the bottle. I wouldnâ€™t bother with them.
There are three chips in the clear coat less than 1.5mm. There is one scratch, about 1â€ long below driver door that goes into the color coat.
The differential oil probably hasnâ€™t been flushed in a while, and so I would suggest doing that at some point.
The seat belts are probably original. I wonder about their safety in a crash, and so would consider replacing them at some point.
Further notes on the car:
This car originally ran on 97 octane gas, which isnâ€™t available anymore. I add octane booster to premium (91 octane) to prevent the engine from dieseling. I have heard that California gas in particular causes dieseling in classic cars, so if this car goes out of state, one might not need the octane booster.
The wheels I put on the car are wider than the original, so the front wheels rub on the sway bar when doing a three point turn, at speeds less than 5mph. They donâ€™t rub during normal driving, and the rubbing hasnâ€™t damaged the paint nor wheel.
This car has poor rain runoff management, in that it can collect in a couple spots and cause rust. The rust has been repaired, but I would not store this car where it can get wet.
The dash cover and door bolsters are plastic, not fabric.
This car has no AC system. You could have one custom installed, and there is some room in the engine bay for a compressor, but something else would probably have to be moved, making it an expensive job. I just keep the windows down.
I have a collection of spare parts and manuals (printed and electronic) that I will include with the sale.
This car has been completely disassembled, repaired and rebuilt with the utmost care. The above list does not include the many, many little parts that had to be replaced or repaired along the way. I hope you will appreciate it as much as I have.