1940 Ford Coupe Deluxe - 327 Chevy, Auto, Mustang front end, front discs
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San Carlos, California, United States
Features and Specifications
|Drive side:||Left-hand drive|
1940 Ford DeluxeI'm considering selling my 1940 Ford Coupe Deluxe - if I can get the price I want. If I can't, I won't sell it. I'm not in any hurry, I don't need help selling it, I'm not open to trades.
I purchased this car from a gentleman in Maryland last year and had it shipped to California. My intention was to drive it more, but I've put less than 30 miles on it in the 9 months I've had it, and frankly I need the garage space. I love the car, and if I had more garage space then I would keep it. It's not being sold because I need the money - I simply need the space.
Here's what I know.
1940 Ford327Auto trans. Might have a shift kit in it, it'll chirp 2nd gear if I gas it.
From the guy I bought it from:
"The rear in the car is a 8.8 or 9â€ Ford rear. The front brakes are disk and the rear are brake shoes. The front suspension is a Mustang independent. The frame is original, but where the x-member is, there is an adapter made by Bob Drake. The rear suspension is a Posies suspension kit for a smooth ride, instead of coil overs shocks. It has a new wire harness, vinque wheels, flow master exhaust"
This car is a driver. It's not a show car, and I don't want to represent it as a show car. I bought it because it runs and drives fine and doesn't need work to be an around-the-town cruiser. Would I jump on the freeway and drive it across the country? Probably not, but I have no reason to suspect there would be any problems with doing so. That's just not what I bought it for. I bought it to cruise around my little town, and that's it.
I'm going to lay out all of the issues that I know of. Franky, to me they're not issues. They come with buying a car from 1940 that doesn't cost $40,000. Spend that much money and you won't have these issues. From a distance it looks perfect. When you get closer, there are some chips, there's a crack in the trunk as you can see in the photo. There doesn't appear to be any rust on this car. Every aligns pretty well. I'm happy to take more specific pictures if you'd like, by the way.
1. Car pulls slightly to the left, more so upon braking.2. The chin was damaged when being unloaded from the trailer - see pics.3. The key cylinder pulls out...needs some kind of retaining mechanism to stay in.4. Wipers don't work5. No heater6. No headliner7. Tires are, I guess, too big...so when you go over bumps at an angle...or pull into a driveway over a sidewalk from the side, the tire rubs and screeches.8. Gas gauge not accurate - I think it reads empty when full, full when empty. Not sure. Haven't run anywhere near a full tank through it.9. Closing the doors is slightly tricky if you're not paying attention. I think you just have to turn the handle before you close it.10. Hood doesn't stay up on its own. Needs to be propped up. So, I guess it needs a spring?
Lights and blinkers work. Brake pedal needs a spring, I think, otherwise when I turn off the car I notice that I have to pull the brake pedal a tad to get the brake lights to turn off. Again, this is not the kind of issue that you'd have with a $40,000 car, but this is not a $40,000 car. It's a driver.
The car is in California, about halfway between San Francisco and San Jose.
The car starts, runs, and drives just fine. Idles fine. Has an electric fan on a toggle switch. It's a very nice looking car as you can see in the photos and gets a lot of attention...almost too much attention for me.
In order to register the vehicle, I had to have the Highway Patrol rivet a small plate on the door jam. It now has a VIN.
If you have any questions, please let me know.