FORD SD F350 4X4 CREW CAB LARIAT LONG BED 7.3 DIESEL 1999 ½
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Camp Verde, Arizona, United States
Features and Specifications
|Type:||Crew Cab Pickup|
|Interior color:||Prairie Tan Leather|
|Drive side:||Left-hand drive|
1999 Ford F-350 Lariat
Some might say the price is high. It is, because it is worth it. One owner, 142k Miles. Pretty much every option. Complete with all paperwork. Perfect mechanically and close to perfect cosmetically, everything works. The 1999 1/2 has no catalytic converter, all mods are smog legal (as far as I know according to when I purchased them), the 7.3 liter is generally double the price of later 6.0 and 6.4 -- check sold trucks. One sold for 44K, one 35k, and the cheaper ones were either listed wrong (like standard cab instead of crew) or high mileage rusty junk.
This is the best used truck for towing you will ever find. Really. It was made for that and modified further toward that end. It has gone on 5,000 mile trips hauling 12,000 lbs of horses and trailer. Yet, since it is primarily used for towing to horse shows, it has less than 142k miles. We are the original owners and it comes with all maintenance receipts, original sticker, and original dealer advertising pamphlets, as well as paperwork for most of the mods.
Oxford White Clear Coat with Medium Prairie Tan Leather
Loaded to the gills. It has:
1) The preferred equipment group (all the toys)
2) Diesel and Electronic Overdrive Transmission
3) 3.73 posi traction differentials
4) Electronic Shift on the Fly 4x4 (manual also possible in a pinch)
5) Engine Block Heater
6) Sliding Rear Window
7) Spare Tire (really – an option!)
8) Tow Mirrors
9) Off Road Package
10) Premium Stereo (radio, cassette, CD)
11) Aero Lights
12) Roof Clearance Lights
13) 4 wheel Anti-lock brakes (option too)
14) Chrome bumpers, front leather captains chairs
15) Privacy glass
16) Trailer towing package
17) Camper package
It has had the following modifications which are safe and very helpful when adult driven (we are adults)
1) Western Diesel 5 way flip chip (stock, tow, economy, fast, and blow black smoke) – honestly don’t remember last two official names.
2) Analog gauges that take their input mechanically (not from the Ford computer) for boost and EGT
3) Juice with Attitude nicely mounted on the left side of the dash with 5 modes (stock, tow, economy, fast, and faster). Ditto on top names.
4) The Juice has gauges as well – from the Ford computer. They can be compared and if something is wrong (e.g. wildly different numbers) I would check for problems. I have a harder time seeing the analog gauges (Hypermax).
5) They can be stacked as they connect differently. When driving in town I put the Juice in stock and use the economy. When towing I use the tow mode on both, stacked. The Juice has many great features – one being that it has a programmable setting for EGT – if it is exceeded it defuels the truck thus protecting it and also screeches at you. This is rare. In 110 weather with 12,000+ trailer up 6+% grade for 10 miles (we live in a valley) it won’t defuel … unless it gets stuck behind a semi and slows to 30 mph and then you have to floor it to get it back to 75 (and yes it will do 75 in those conditions but we are conservative and usually go 65)
6) Valve body in transmission changed to increase line pressure – mechanically. It shift a little hard empty and like stock with 12,000 lbs behind it.
7) After market brake pads (I think “Green Stuff?” at 104k miles.
8) Toyo Open Country All Terrain tires with less than 10k miles (I think less than 5k – can’t find mileage receipt).
9) Re-routed fuel filter drain as Ford chose to dump it on the front axle making catching it in a bucket impossible. You can see in the front by one of the hooks a valve for that. No mess. Rarely need it but still nice.
You cannot just chip a truck (that tows hard) and have it last long. So the following was done to reduce EGT to sane levels. 1350 degrees may not be exceeded for long although a short burst is OK and we do allow 1370 and are watchful. This is all programmable. The following EGT reducing changes were made:
1) Hypermax taper core intercooler
2) All new hoses with superior clamps (no leaks)
3) CFM+ manifold – stock is one cast pieces and the exhaust goes through one side and the cool air back the other side … problem is the whole thing gets hot and raises the temps going into the engine. This is two separate pieces of different material – preventing that problem.
4) 4 inch down pipe leading to a 5 inch exhaust system. Totally legal – 99 ½ had no catalytic so it is not a “cat back” system – it is turbo to air all the way.
5) K&N intake of massive size and modified. 99 trucks pulled air from the fender to get air. And promptly filled with mud, water, etc. 99 ½ move to the new system – a tine (pinky sized) whole in the front that then went through the battery box and then to the K&N. Our version had an option to allow the air to come from the engine compartment (hot). No good. So we noticed that the hole for the fender intakes was still in the sheet metal. So we cut a hole in the side of the truck and put a scoop on it (pictures show it). We ducted it through that hole and as a consequence it dumps directly onto the K&N (this was a major EGT drop). Under hood temps went way down. Only bad thing – it does need cleaning a little more often.
6) The turbo mechanical waste gate control has been disabled and properly plugged – we want air! Stock allows 18 lbs so with the mods the waste gate would “flutter.” The computer still operates the wastegate as well … it was a redundant system and with the Juice with Attitude not needed. I was conservative in programming and hardware design. Stock is 18lbs max. Ours is 28 lbs max (and that is hard to get – have to really work it). Much more and you have to change head bolts and other internal engine parts.
You can see a few other obvious mods like camper shell and carpeted interior. It has side storage units. The center can be raised for a bed or to hide things. In all honesty – that carpet has seen better days (mostly stains) and the camper shell has small issues with handles (hard to turn). There are no suspension mods – it is not lifted, does not have fat tires, etc. – it is made for towing. Does long distance well, and is also very good on graded roads.
The stereo mods are not as obvious. It has the stock head unit but:
1) It has very nice replacement speakers – I do not remember the brand but they are very high end three way.
2) They have cross overs with remote tweeters front and rear. They allow the built-in speakers and tweeters to work.
3) There is a giant Bazooka sub woofer behind the rear seat (which I don’t turn high, I am not a rap fan) also with cross over that does not allow the extreme bass to the mains … hence prolonging their life and keeping things from rattling so much with heavy bass
4) The speakers (not woofer) we replaced recently due to age … the woofer is as old as the truck almost.
It is 19 years old – we got it in January of 1999. It has had a few “oops.” All minor and not requiring major work:
1) Bumpers – small dents, now replaced.
2) Parking lot hits on right side and driver door that took body work. You can’t see it except sometimes when I look very hard at the driver’s door I imagine I see it. I actually did that at a gas station early on, opening the door into those walls that some stations used (and most do not any more).
3) Parking lot hit on left rear. This was worse than most and I insisted on a new fender and bumper. No mechanical or frame changes needed.
4) The worst of the worst combined with idiot mechanics and insurance company. A pack rat moved in and chewed some stuff up. The symptom was sudden death – running along fine then nothing. Wait an hour, ran fine. Of course it could be after 5 miles ot 60 miles. Not acceptable. Insurance insisted I take it to one of their approved shops which here meant the Ford dealer. They just plug into the OBD II and change parts. Of course with little nicks in the wiring harness all kinds of things showed up. The dealer went bankrupt. Trouble getting it. New Dealer. Ford twice sent a top engineer from Phoenix to try and fix it (after talking to William Ford’s executive secretary). After 10k and almost two years spent by insurance and no fix in sight I finally I convinced them to let me take it to an old mechanic I know. However every single computer and sensor is brand new Ford except perhaps the oil pressure sensor on top of the block as I think the person that finally fixed it may have used a NAPA part. He does things the old way and knows my trucks as he is my regular mechanic – he removed the entire harness, laid it out on his shop bay, got his reading glasses, and traced every wire and found seven nicks that exposed metal – all potential shorts. They were properly repaired, a new wiring loom installed, back into the truck. Never a problem again. Took three days. We drive it all the time and there are no electrical problems. Bonus – all new computers and sensors. Even the recall cam sensor and way-deep oil/fuel pump, etc. Much of what Ford did is not documented (out of business, etc).
5) I hit a large rock with the right front tire – choice was slam into a cliff on the left, go off a 100 foot drop off, or hit the rock. I did get the tire on it but ut dented the rim and tie rod and broke the tie rod clamp. Still drove, just a little funky! I got a refurbished wheel (cannot buy new), new tie rod, and one of the brackets. The other was not available but my mechanic welded it and said it is stronger than stock. Been six years, I believe him. Aligned also at that time. This has caused no issues and beats ripping out the oil pan!
6) Running boards get bent every so often and straightened – look good, not perfect.
Cosmetics are awesome. The exterior looks new. The interior looks new – and smells like leather. We have carpets with factory carpet mats with rubber mats on top. No wear or stains at all except some leather wear on the rear seats – more a patina issue, no cracks, no damage. The front seats were re-done by an old-world craftsman (looked to be 75 or so). Unlike the original which had leather only on the seat surfaces (poor quality at that) the new leather is beautifully stitched and covers everything: seat surfaces, sides, back, and most important to me, the arm rests. I hate vinyl! Have that soft leather there is so nice. This is top quality thick but soft leather perfectly matched. All we lost was the embossed “Lariat” on the back rest (no loss). The truck was garaged most of it’s life as we built our house and it was built to fit the truck. Since we bought a new truck, outside it went. And the new one does not fit … grrrr. But we had something else to put there. It is annually professionally detailed – hence the paint is close to flawless. There are no cracks in the dash, doors, seats, etc – all protected it’s entire life. We detail for protection, not looks. We also do touchups ourselves during the year. Remember inside the camper shell, not so pretty. We use it, carpets stained. Also, the front grill is faded and has a crack. We did not replace it because it is expensive and for that money the new owner might want to buy one of the cool mesh grills or other fancy grills available. And it does not really show unless you are looking right at it.
We are also maintenance fanatics. All maintenance done on schedule. After initial break in, it has always run Mobil 1 synthetic in the engine, transmission, and differentials. Oil changes were done on schedule as if it was Dino Oil – we use Mobil 1 15-50 which even now has the proper phosphorous and zinc to protect a diesel. It does not smoke at startup or running (unless you go nuts with the chips … once I did it and spun the rear wheels). It has two new batteries as of a few weeks ago.
Stock was 230 hp and 380 lbs/feet torque. I can only guess from literature and how it drives – I believe it has about 325+ hp and 480+ lbs/feet torque (some say closer to 600 lbs/feet). What I do know is it will tow a giant horse trailer of 12k lbs from Phoenix to Boise at 80 mph all day long. Solid as a rock, no heating/cooling issues, etc. No DPF! We can provide the name and phone number of the shop that has worked on the truck since new (there is one mechanic, the owner, that is the only one we let touch it) – if you are serious. I don’t want him bombarded. Transmission fluid last done at 114k and should be done again at 150k. Diffs last done at 138K and should also be done again at 150K. Brake pads were done at 104k and should last until 200k if driven properly. The rotors were not turned (I will not do that) – they were fine and left as is. When I do replace them I use Italia slotted discs which are very nice. Some of the maintenance got out of sync because something leaked and the gaskets were changed and we had new fluid put it. Still better to get it back on schedule at 150k even though some items are ahead of schedule now. Easier to remember.
It comes with a few spares and removed parts (exhaust if you want it although it does not fit in the bed, complete battery box, spare driver side mirror with cracks I added in 1999 … works fine). Maybe fuel filters or other stuff. Not my tools, spare oil, etc. J There is nothing important that I know of that does not work perfectly or is in imminent need of repair. This is the perfect truck for someone that wants close to new but does not want to shell out 85 grand (by the time you pay tax, license, etc, that is what they cost) for a new one. It is as close to getting showroom new, with adult modifications bringing it closer to modern specs, than any truck out there. I would drive this truck anywhere with heavy trailer and no fear. It has all manuals, tools, and records, a few spares.
No – we are not in a rush to sell so lowball offers are not appreciated. Probably I will ignore all offers. Just bid. I have bought and sold a lot of cars almost since eBay started and have a perfect record. Once somebody read the above and offered me a penny less. OK, I took it. But you get the idea.
Come on equestrians! Toy haulers. Heavy equipment haulers (my cousin towed a 4800 lbs heavy equipment trailer with a 18k full sized Cat backhoe to Oregon. Yes, over specs. He was slow and careful. It is a towing beast.
There is no need for a large deposit – you will either pay for the truck and pick it up on time, or you won’t. I just need a little to pay listing fees if you flake so the deposit is non-refundable. We will take any kind of payment as long as it arrives on time – wire, certified check, personal check, cash, etc. However, be aware, you won’t get the truck until the funds clear. Even certified checks take 2-3 days, personal checks 1-2 weeks. Wire transfer is the fastest if we can figure it out.
Note – We can be flexible regarding payment dates and pickup dates – but you must contact me through eBay and make a written agreement so that if there is a dispute eBay can mediate anything agreed to beyond this listing.
Bid to own – there is no reserve and if you check the sold listings you can see several good ones of this vintage over 35k (one was over 44k!). You will not be disappointed.